I refreshed this box two years ago, and it’s back for another look. When I pulled it apart, the crown wheel (ring gear to us Americans) and pinion were badly worn. It’s been a challenge finding technical information, as Quaife has nothing other than an exploded diagram, and Radical has moved on to the slight bigger Q72 for the latest SR8s. Still, after a lot of searching I’ve found that the pinion depth should be 109.9mm, the differential bearing preload should be 12-15 Nm, and the backlash should be between .004-.008 inches. I’ve worked out how to measure and set up the pinion depth, and I’m working on the preload and backlash set up now.
I made the following video about pinion depth and how to measure it in the gearbox:
I’ll be posting more videos about the rest of the gearbox refresh process.
Some of the unique features of the car include a custom exhaust (2″ primaries, 4″ collector, oval tubes, x-pipe, and 3″ tail pipes), a complete custom dash and matching interior, Cobra Misano carbon fiber seats, 9 speaker stereo/navigation system, constant velocity driveshaft, automatic headlights, LED interior lighting, self-draining catch cans, and more.
Joe Gibbs Break-In Oil and Mobil1 0W-40 European Formula are ready for the job.
The shop Z06 is on the mend from recent piston surgery, and I bought some Mobil1 0W-40 motor oil to fill up the dry sump tank for its initial fire. GM recommends 5W-30 Mobil1 and every LS7 leaves the factory filled with it, and I like the 0W-40 only because it has more zinc, and it is preferred oil in my crowd at the local tracks. I mentioned all that to Dave Crume (of Crume Racing Engines), who built the short-block, and he cringed. He told me to use Joe Gibbs break-in oil for a couple of hours, then switch to a quality non-synthetic oil, and then to a synthetic oil at 500-1000 miles. He said the engine wouldn’t break in properly unless I did that.
The Stack TPMS gauge shows tire pressures and temperatures at a glance.
More and more safety and convenience systems are making their way from late-model vehicles to our hot rods. Some high end builds are using anti-lock braking systems and traction control. Other examples are cruise control, three point seatbelts, thermostatically controlled environment controls, interior and exterior lighting, and navigation systems, to name a few.
The latest in this long list is TPMS: a tire pressure monitoring system. When we built the Tommy Camaro, the owner wanted to go without a spare, and use run-flat tires with a TPMS. After some research, and a walk-through at the PRI show, we found this amazing system from Stack. Stack specializes in data recording for race cars, and recently added a TPMS to their catalogue. Continue reading →
There’s a variety of clamps in this photograph, and they all have their place. The upper radiator hose uses Gates heat shrink clamps.
We’re in the process of sealing up the cooling system of the Tommy Camaro with a variety of clamps — none of which are the typical hardware store worm drive type. The most obvious and interesting clamp is the Gates heat shrink product which holds the upper radiator hose together. Given the multi part nature of the upper hose, traditional clamps would have been an unattractive bristled mess of stainless steel. The Gates clamps look way cleaner and outperform the old school alternative. Continue reading →
I’ve been using my new Miller welders for about a month now. I’m pleased so far… the Dynasty 200 DX TIG machine has an amazing arc and the foot pedal felt natural from the start. I’m also applying my new knowledge of proper setup when using a gas lens (use 22 CFH rather than 16ish). Now I can use a tungsten stickout of an inch with no problem at all. Check out the size of the machine in the photo below. It weighs less than 50 lbs, and can be carried to the job site. It will even work with 110V if needed. I still haven’t tried it out on aluminum — which is why I sold my Lincoln to step up to this machine in the first place. That’s going to change soon: I’ve got a fuel tank to make in a couple of weeks.
My new Miller MIG machine (Millermatic 211) was a bit more trouble. Using the factory setup wasn’t working — I was struggling with burnback (where the wire melts at the torch end and not in the weld puddle) until I read on the Miller welding forum to turn up wire speed about 20% when using .024 wire (which I was). Now the machine is rock-solid and works perfectly. The low-spatter claims seem to be true as well.